84 THE ESSEX NATURALIST
After descending the motte we were able to enjoy a chat with Mr. Denis
Buxton, during which we were told something of the history of the Castle
and its site. The party then went to the parish church of St. Martin, where
the Rector, the Rev. J. P. Vaughan-Jones, gave an account of the church and
showed us many of its interesting features. Built about HOO, the church
originally had at the east end two tiers each of three windows. These were
replaced about 1300 by the present single large window at each side of which
can still be seen traces of the original arrangement. In the south wall of the
nave is a priest's door—now blocked—with a small scratched sundial on the
stone jamb.
A most interesting feature is the ankar-hold in the north wall of the chancel.
This has an entrance from the outside and a window looking into the church
so that a hermit could attend the services without himself being seen. The
steeple contains two bells and a 17th century "bedstead" clock which strikes
the hours but has no face. A black marble slab marks the grave of
Jane Pallavicini, the daughter of the Sir Oliver Cromwell who was uncle to
the Protector, but who fought with the Royalists in the Civil Wars. When
we had thanked the Rector and taken our leave the party split up into little
groups and picknicked in the nearby meadows, enjoying a very pleasant and
restful break in the warm sunshine.
After lunch there followed a walk along the avenue of elms leading to
Greenstead Hall. The trees forming the avenue are obviously of at least
two kinds. As there were no fruits available at this time of year no
attempt was made to name them accurately but the difference beween the
habit and general appearance of what we considered to be the Wych Elms
and the Common Elms was very noticeable especially where the two grew in
close proximity. Close to Greenstead Hall stands the church of St. Andrew.
Most of us had visited this timber-built Saxon church before, some of us a
number of times, but a visit to this simple shrine of ancient peace is always
rewarding. On this occasion we were privileged to be welcomed by the
Rector, the Rev. J. W. Harford, and we sat in the quiet little church while
he unfolded to us the story of the Saxon King Edmund.
In 870 the invading Danes shot with arrows and afterwards beheaded the
king when he refused to deny the Christian faith. The body of the martyred
king was enshrined at Bury St. Edmunds but in 1010, when another Danish
invasion took place, was taken for safety to London. In 1013, the Danes
having been driven out, the body of the martyred king was taken back to
Bury St. Edmunds and on the way rested in the "wooded chapel near Aungre".
Greenstead Church, already none knows how old, thus became famous in
history. As we sat between the timber walls of the nave, now nearly
1,000 years old, we felt thankful for the lasting work of the Saxon
builders and the faith of the generations of parishioners who have cared
so well for this little church in the heart of the English countryside. Then,
having thanked the Rector for his kindly reception and most interesting talk
we returned along the great avenue to Ongar and our cars.
The next stop was at Willingale where we were once again most kindly
received by the Rector. This is, of course, the village which is famous for
having two churches in its one churchyard. This curious circumstance has
occasioned some equally curious legends all without any corroboration. The
real reason for the proximity seems to be that the lords of adjacent manors
found it convenient to build the churches on this site. The Rector first led
us to the Church of All Saints', Willingale Spain. This church was last
used by members of the American forces stationed in the neighbourhood
during the second world war. It has suffered somewhat from neglect and its
war-damaged windows have not yet been repaired, but its Norman walls