Journal of Proceedings.
lxxv
room, and while there is more of it in substance, its flavour is altogether
more excellent. In it we seem to get all the virtues of the Common
Mushroom in an enhanced and concentrated form. I lately made an
expedition to the spot where it grew so freely last September, but I was
not fortunate enough to find any specimens. In taste, as well as in
aspect, Psalliota elvensis is truly the king of Mushrooms. So far the
great genus Agaricus. In the next genus I have eaten two species.
Coprinus comatas I can only characterise as rich. Lactarius deliciosus is
so correctly named ' delicious ' that it requires hardly any other epithet.
Besides having a charming flavour, it makes a very solid and satisfying
dish. Dr. Bull says it is perfect in a pie, with bacon, the crust pre-
venting the escape of its aroma. The Chantarelle (Cantharellus cibarius)
possesses in perfection the three virtues of colour, smell, and taste. My
guests occasionally hesitate a little when I offer them some of our
delicacies, but nobody tastes the Chantarelle without wishing—too often
vainly—for more. I have already mentioned my affection for the
Champignon (Marasmius oreades). It certainly is a jewel among Fungi,
though so delicately and finely flavoured that it may be easily spoilt by
an unappreciative cook. Boletus edulis is a fine plump species, which
makes a most palatable and satisfying dish, such as a vegetarian might
eat and fancy was some delicious meat in disguise. Boletus granulatus
I tasted last week, through the kindness of my friend Dr. Cooke. Its
inviting aspect is only equalled by its agreeable flavour; its nuttiness and
its absence of sliminess make it superior to Boletus edulis. The ' Beef-
steak Mushroom' (Fistulina, hepatica) is a little disappointing as a sub-
stitute for beefsteak ; but as an accompaniment it adds a charm to that
dish such as few would imagine from its appearance. I think Hydnum
repandum lacks delicacy and softness, but it is a fine ingredient in soups,
and I have often found it a capital condiment when eaten raw with
sandwiches in the woods. Craterellus cornucopioides has not hitherto, I
believe, been mentioned as edible in our English books, though the French
have long appreciated it. For all its looking so lowering and so leathery,
it makes a very succulent and agreeable entree. My last luxury, Sparassis
crispa, is unfortunately rather rare. I have found it of an immense size
in Black Park, near Uxbridge, and you may remember a gigantic specimen
exhibited here by Mr. Worthington Smith last year. It is like a fine
jelly in its softness and delicate flavour; even when eaten raw it is
agreeable.
" Seeing that there are certainly three times as many Edible Fungi
common in Britain as I have yet tasted, I have still fair hopes of many
pleasures to come. It is unlikely that anybody else's experience of the
same number of edible species will coincide with mine, so great is the
variety everywhere around us. If we approach the question from the
scientific side, we have no reason to fear the sad fate of Mr. Dodds; we
must know each fungus botanically before we can safely eat it. I imagine
that further experiments will tend greatly to enlarge our number of
edible species, and that the list of poisonous ones is pretty accurately
known already. And side by side with our increasing knowledge of the
utility of Fungi as articles of food, I am happy to say that our know-
ledge also increases of the means by which we may counteract the ill
effects of the poisonous species. The wonderful discovery that atropine
is a perfect antidote to muscarine, the poisonous element of Amanita
muscarius, gives us ground for hope that we may some day fearlessly try
the effect of every fungus not hitherto known to be poisonous. But
until that day arrives I for my part shall be content to enjoy that large
number of species alone whose wholesomeness has already been incon-
testably proved. A great reward was once offered, as you are aware, by