Observing and Studying Dragonflies
For the beginner, the most important step will be to learn to identify the British
species. The key given in this work (Appendix C) should help with identification of the
Essex species, but for anyone who wishes to take the study of dragonflies further, it will
be necessary to purchase one or more of the available identification guides with colour
illustrations. With a little experience most species can be identified in the field without
any need to capture individuals. The possible exceptions to this are the females of some
species of damselfly (Enallagma and Coenagrion species) and of some Sympetrum
species (S. sanguineum and S. .striolatum especially). For identifying the more difficult
species in the field, as well as for observing the behaviour of dragonflies a small, light
pair of binoculars is indispensable. The high powered binoculars favoured by bird-
watchers are generally unsuitable for this purpose, as it is particularly important to be
able to focus on insects which are quite close to the observer (I use a pair of 7 x 18
binoculars).
Where exact identification of difficult species is required (as, for example, in
recording work), dragonflies and damselflies can be captured with a butterfly-net. Great
care is needed as dragonflies are easily damaged by the net frame. Where expert
confirmation is required, live dragonflies can be sent through the post in a well-packed
tube, so long as movement of the wings is restricted by the size of the container. Killing
and collecting of dragonflies is unnecessary except for a very few scientific purposes,
and should be very strongly discouraged in these more conservation-minded days. In
my view, far more aesthetic pleasure, as well as genuinely valuable information can be
obtained from colour photographs of living insects in their natural surroundings than
by rows of dead cabinet specimens.
Because of the powerful flight and alertness of most dragonflies, photographing
provides great challenges. The appropriate equipment is subject to some debate and
personal preference. In my opinion a manual, single-lens reflex camera, with a 90 mm
(or thereabouts) macro lens is quite adequate.
This allows a good image-to-object ratio with a reasonably long working-distance. If
natural light is used, a 100 or 200 ASA film will generally be required to give adequate
depth of field on sunny days. An alternative is to hand-hold, or mount on the camera
one or two low-power flash units. With flash illumination in daylight smaller apertures
can be used, so increasing depth of field, and/or allowing use of slower films. Some
experimentation will be needed to arrive at optimal apertures and positioning of the
flash units for objects at various distances from the camera. One persistent difficulty
with the use of flash is that for a correctly illuminated central object, there may be a dark
or even completely black background. This is less of a problem when flash is used in
conditions where natural illumination is in any case quite good, or where the
background includes vegetation or some other solid surface reasonably close to the
object which will also reflect the flash. With experience it becomes possible to judge
which techniques are likely to produce the best results in any given situation. In general.
I have found it easier to get acceptable results using flash with damselflies than with the
larger dragonflies.
The aquatic nymphal stages of dragonflies present yet further challenges to the
photographer, and are also a much neglected but very promising topic for close study in
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